Walking Cape Town's Death Roads.  

Christian Ernsten

Travel writer Robert Macfarlane writes about death roads, or “ghost roads”—old paths that converge at medieval cemeteries. Historically, walking these paths meant engaging in a traditional ritual, in which a deceased family or community member was carried to his or her grave. (Macfarlane, 2013: 13-14) In this presentation I find inspiration in the idea of following these pre-modern Dutch death roads that the ancestors walked while carrying their loved ones, even if their translation into the Cape Town context is a fraught and complicated one. I reflect on walking routes in Cape Town loaded with intense emotions and memories related to colonial pasts and presents. During the presentation I go on a walking tour which is in fact a journey through the trenches of post-apartheid heritage. According to decolonial archaeologist Alejandro Haber, it is a battlefield where one “either inhabits the hegemonic time, [ . . . ] enjoy[ing] the little or big market success”, or inhabits “a counter-time” (Haber, 2015).